I have a Kenmore dryer that is not heating. I have replaced the hi temp thermal kit and it worked for 2 loads. Now it wont heat again. Could it be a faulty hi temp kit or possibly something else? I had replaced these several years ago and it has been good up until now. One of the items in the thermal kit is a fuse. Having said that it is likely that you did not find the reason for the overheat condition that caused the fuse to blow the first time and now, it has blown again.
You may have airflow problem. Try the following 2 tests. The second test. Hold the motor pulley and check to see if the blower wheel turns on the shaft.
If it turns, replace the blower wheel. Hi I have a Whirlpool dryer that is not heating up. I checked and it is not a matter of airflow nor is it any of the thermostats or heating elements. The glow bar gets hot but it there is no flame. It seems as if the gas valve is not opening. What is the easiest way to check this Because it is located in the bottom of the dryer and it is hard to get access to. When the igniter comes on and stays on, it is usually the flame switch.
It is located to the side of the burner with a little window toward the flame. Unplug the dryer and remove one of the two wires and check for continuity no continuity is bad or take the flame switch to your nearest U-FIX-IT store for free testing.
I have a Whirlpool Cabrio that is not heating. I torn it apart and took all the heating components to a appliance repair shop where they said it was all good. I have to replace my thermal fuse every few months as it likes to blow. Before it stopped heating, on two separate accounts I smelled burning.
You are going to need more help than I can give in an email, please call or come by the nearest U-FIX-IT store for assistance in solving this problem. We will need to see the wiring diagram for your dryer in order to guide you through the troubleshooting process.
I am assuming that the bias thermistor is the likely culprit. Before tearing into it, can you confirm my suspicions? I need a wiring diagram and model number to give specific guidance, but any component in the circuit for low heat is a candidate for being the troublemaker. About a week ago our dryer stopped heating up. The drum spins normal. I checked the fuses, thermostats, heating element and everything has continuity.
Dryer is only about years old.. Any ideas what to check for? Thanks, Mike. Locate the wiring diagram for your dryer and call or come by the nearest U-FIX-IT store for guidance in the troubleshooting process. I have a Whirlpool dryer that will not get hot I have tested all of the thermostats and fuses and they are all good I checked on any air flow issues and the air flow is good The globe bar gets red hot but there is no flame.
These parts are underneath the dryer under the drum These parts are underneath the dryer under the drum. Check the flame sensor located next to the burner has a window facing the flame for continuity or take the flame sensor to the nearest U-FIX-IT store for free testing. Replace the sensor if there is no continuity. My dryer initially stopped drying so I tried to find what to replace and then I changed only the thermal fuse. I turned the dryer back on and it started working again, only for about a day.
Then it stopped working. What should i try next? I also do not understand how to restart the circuit breaker, if that is what I need to do. The circuit breaker for the dryer is located in the main breaker box for your home. Electric dryers have a double breaker or two breakers. When this happens the dryer can turn but not heat. Resetting or restarting the breaker is accomplished by turning the breaker off and then back on. It is located next to the flame and has a small window facing the flame.
Replace the flame sensor if there is no continuity. HI jim,we have a gas dryer kenmore we came home the other day and it had been running for about 6 hrs,it never shut off, after we turned it off the next day when we turned it on it wouldnt heat up, I replaced the thermal fuse and the thermostat,also replaced the ignighter, also 2 months ago replaced the coils,its 12 years old,it starts fine it just doesnt make any attempt to light,what should I replace next?
It could be the flame sensor located next to the burner. If it has continuity between the two terminals, it is good. Replace it if you have no continuity. I have a whirlpool w gas dryer that is not heating up. After looking at some videos online I decided to troubleshoot it myself.
When I removed the back panel I must have unplugged the red and yellow wire accidentally and cannot find where it plugs in to. Can you please help? Thank you in advance. Most dryers have a wiring diagram on one of the panels or inside the control housing.
That diagram should give you the direction you need. The heating element will glow and the dryer will have a good flame for about 5 seconds and then it goes out. About 45 seconds to a minute later, it will repeat the process over and over again. Heats up, 5 seconds goes out, a minute later heats up and off again in 5 seconds. Thisis both with the exhaust tube hooked up to the dryer and with it off. I cleaned out a lot of lint from the trap, and some in the blower wheel.
However, I have reason to believe that the outside vent might have been restricted fixed that and a possible cause to this problem now. I have tested for continuity the gas coils, heating element, cycling thermostat. All seem to be within specs, though the cycling thermostat was giving me high meter readings at first, but for some reason, just goes to about.
If the high limit thermostat did trip due to a possible exhaust restriction, I was under the assumption that it does NOT reset. Would a blown high limit thermostat still allow even brief 5 second flame? Except for actually looking at the igniter for cracks and possibly testing that high limit thermostat, I am really at a dead end. I suspect an airflow problem. Whirlpool dryer does not completely dry the clothes every time.
Maybe about every time the clothes will be dry then not. Drying time can be affected by three things. The size of the load 2. How wet the load is. Did the washer spin the water out of the clothes sufficiently? Heat 4. Airflow through the dryer.
Your dryer may be drying the small load and struggling with the normal size loads. Visually inspect your heating element to verify there are no breaks in the element. Occasionally a heating element will break and weld to the housing causing it to generate less heat than needed.
If the heating element is good and the load is normal size and wetness, that leaves you with an airflow problem. Hi Jim I have a whirlpool cabrio wedswd.
I have the same problem with this dryer. Its not heating. I replaced the element and the high limit thermostat. I tested the thermistor and thermal fuse and I get continuity. Im getting power to the element. What else should I try to get the heater to turn on. I tested the v outlet and is coming out of it. Could I have attached the power cord backwards? Not sure what to try next. Your familiarity with a multi-meter will help you solve this problem.
Find the wiring diagram for your dryer. It may be located in the control panel or it may be on the back of the dryer, but there is usually one included somewhere on the dryer. I had heat very briefly and when I went to retrieve the first load I had run through, the clothes were not dry.
I attempted to run the dryer again, but this time, I watched and it did not produce heat. I checked the safety thermostat before purchasing any parts and it did not have any resistance, so I deemed this the problem. Has the safety thermostat fuse blown again? I did not replace the High Level Thermostat, but could this be the problem that is causing the Safety Fuse to blow if the Hi-Level Thermostat is not working properly? Thank You in Advance for your Help!
Yes, it is possible a failed safety thermostat can cause the safety fuse to blow. The repeated failure of the safety fuse is often the result of poor air flow.
I have a Whirlpool Duet drier. Remove the thermistor and take it to your nearest U-FIX-IT store for free testing or test it yourself using an ohm-meter. The resistance at 70 degrees should read approximately There is a tech sheet packed inside Duet dryers which can guide you through the built in diagnostics as well.
The wiring diagram which is part of the tech sheet can provide road map for tracing the voltage though the dryer. I am having same problem as this person on post. Whirlpool duet dryer everything works but no heat. I have checked coils…thermostat. Amy help would greatly be appeciated.
Any help please. I have a whirlpool dryer. We just moved and now the dryer has no heat. Worked the morning we moved. I have checked the circuit breaker and the heating element. What should I check next? I see in the past you have suggested changing the fuse and the thermostat together. Are those relatively expensive? Do I need to change them all? Thanks, Diana. Yes, all of the thermostats and fuses can be checked for continuity using a multi-meter, or you can take them to the nearest U-FIX-IT for free testing.
If the fuse has blown in your new location be sure to check the vent to maker sure it is clean and clear of obstructions. If the vent is going up through the attic or is long, you may need a boost pump to keep the fuse from blowing. I have a Whirlpool gas dryer.
It is making a noise much like a plastic roller bearing is vibrating loose. Meanwhile, we have little to no heat. Noise starts again, click, and the cycle continues. Watch the burner as the dryer starts up. Observe the igniter and record what it is doing.
Record what is happening with the flame as well and let me know. I will be able to give you better advice. A test of thermal fuse, heating element, thermal cutoff, and high limit thermostat found a bad high limit thermostat.
Made sure exhaust pipe was clear and replaced high limit thermostat. Had heat very briefly and then heat cut-off again. Dryer still spins and airflow outdoors through exhaust is very good. I suspect high limit thermostat has again been blown. Ideas for what could be causing the hlt to blow when the exhaust appears clear and airflow is good? It is possible for high amp draw in the circuit to cause the fuse to blow.
You need a clamp on amp meter to be able to make the measurement. I am more suspicious that the air flow is not good since protecting against restricted airflow is the purpose of the fuse. Before using the kit, you may want to try the following check on your lint screen.
Remove the lint screen from the dryer and brush away the lint. Run water into the lint screen. If the water beads up and does not flow through the screen easily then clean the screen with a detergent and a brush until the water flows through easily.
It is possible to acquire a clear coating on the lint screen which restricts the air flow. Hey I have a whirlpool gas dryer. It fires up the first time. So I replaced the ignitor. It fires off then goes off the next time the ignitor goes off the flame does not come back on. Help me please!!! To determine the problem with your Whirlpool gas dryer there is a test you can perform. Use a multi-meter on the ohms setting to check the continuity of the flame sensor.
The flame sensor is located next to the burner. It has a small window facing the flame and two wires connected to it. Disconnect the power to the dryer and remove the two wires from the sensor before the attempting continuity check.
If there is a connection continuity between the two terminals the flame sensor, it is good. If the flame sensor is good, the problem is most likely the coils solenoids on the gas valve. Hi I have a Whirlpool electric dryer imperial series and it is getting warm but not hot when placed on hi heat I have checked the breakers and also the duct for clogs but it is all retalitvy new solid duct no coragated dryer hose is involved in my duct it comes out from the dryer into an elbow up about 7 feet than an elbow and exhausted outside so there are no flow restrictions what should I look for to fix the problem.
Jim, You do not say if the Whirlpool dryer has worked correctly on this duct in the past. Disconnect your dryer from the duct work and check to see if it heats properly. If it does, you know the problem is the duct work and you will need to install a boost pump to get adequate air flow since you stated the duct is free of restrictions. If the high heat problem persists, check for vigorous airflow exiting the dryer with the duct disconnected.
If you question that the airflow is not enough, then check the lint screen as follows. If the lint screen passes the water test, then hold the motor pulley while attempting to turn the blower wheel on the other end of the motor. The blower wheel should be tight on the shaft. If you can turn the blower wheel while holding the motor pulley, the blower wheel is bad. I have a whirlpool electric dryer model number wedvq1 that will only function on automatic dry.
Joshua, The wiring diagram, a volt meter and a methodical approach is necessary to identify the problem. Measure for volts arriving at the machine and then use the wiring diagram as your guide to follow the volts one leg of the volts through the electrical circuit to the motor.
One of the components in the circuit is preventing the deliver of power to the motor. You may be able to determine the likely cause by looking at the wiring diagram for the component s that is in the circuit for the timed dry, but not for the automatic dry. I have a Whirlpool electric dryer that is not heating.
I have verified power, and checked the heating element, thermal cutoff fuse and thermostat switch mounted on the outside of the dryer element. All check out ok. I isolated that component as well and checked it with an ohm meter, and it is an open circuit.
Is that my problem? If so, what part do I need to order? Bob, Yes, the component you are describing a fuse should not be open. We keep those in stock at all stores. The factory recommends replacing the high limit thermostat at the same time. It is possible a failed high limit switch caused the fuse to open. The model number is needed to determine which kit you need or you can take the old ones in to the location nearest you for free testing to verify you diagnosis.
The no-heat and high-heat settings work fine, but it seemed like it was getting too hot when on the low-heat setting. As best I can tell, it heats up the same amount on low- or high-heat. I took it apart and, sure enough, both sides of the heating element glow red when I run the dryer on low-heat.
Both also glow red when it is on high-heat, and neither glow when it is on no-heat. Is this a switch problem? Xander, The dryer varys the amount of time the element is on to achieve different temperatures in the dryer. Both sides of the element get hot at the same time. Place a thermometer in the exhaust duct to verify the dryer turning the element off at different temperatures.
I have a whirlpool drier that is about 5 years old, Tuesday evening I dried clothes tonight I put a load into dry, lights come on but drum does not turn and does not heat up. Thank you very much. The door switch is the most common problem when the dryer does not turn. The door switch is probably in stock. TUrned it on but produced no heat, changed out high temp thermostadt, thermal cut off switch was bypassed before we bought this used and didnot affect drying.
Any ideas why it is not drying. You did not mention checking the circuit breakers for the dryer in your main breaker box. Many dryers have two circuit breakers. A surge can cause one breaker to open without tripping the other. The volt motor continues to run, but the v element will not get hot. There are two less common malfunctions to look for. Open the small access door and inspect the cord connection. The cord terminal block can break down causing one of the cord terminals to burn and separate from one leg of the dryer cord.
The purpose of the switch is to prevent the element from heating if the motor fails to start. A faulty switch will prevent the heater from heating even when the motor runs. The continuity test of the switch must be performed while the dryer is running. Make certain you disconnect the leads to the switch and insulate them prior to plugging in the dryer and starting the dry cycle.
The correct leads are identified by looking at the wiring diagram. I have a whirlpool electric dryer. While checking voltage all around, I noticed it was not reading at the end of cycle alert button, when I unplugged the wire from this it then started to heat up. What is this part? A wiring diagram is needed to determine what you took out of the circuit when you disconnected the wire.
I am unable to identify the part from your description. I have a Maytag Performa. Purchased in About 6months ago t stopped heating when using one of the cycles so I began using one of the others. Recently it just heated at a high temp no matter the setting. Now it does not heat on any setting. I hope you can help me!
Your Maytag dryer probably have two malfunctions. Bad weather can cause electrical surges which blow the internal fuse in the dryer. Call the store nearest you with you model number to find out where you fuse is located and how to test it. I need a model number to give any guidance on the loss of ability to chose lower temperatures. Calling the store nearest you may be the easiest way to work through diagnosis on that. Michael, I am assuming that you have checked the heating element for a break in the element and there was no break.
Use a volt meter to measure the voltage between the two leads of the heating element while the dryer is running. If it reads volts and the element is not hot, then the element is bad. Use the wiring diagram as your guide to follow the circuit and test each component in the circuit in the same manner. Place a meter probe on each lead of the component while the dryer is running.
When the meter read volts you will have identified the bad component. WARNING: Careless placement of the probes while the dryer is running may result in a short, a shock to you, or damage to the dryer components. Plzzz help i used my dryer yesterday everything worked fine and now it spins and everything but it wont heat up nd my clithes would be cool what donu think is the prob?
That list is the best place to start. Brand new-any suggestions? Had electrician come this morning and electricity is fine. By the way, the knob cannot be pulled off by hand like the other knobs on the dryer. If the timer knob needs to be removed, how do you do that?
It appears the knob is spun degrees from where it should be. If the knob slides on to a shaft that has one flat side it would seem that the knob can only fit on the shaft one way and not be able to be removed and then put back on in a different position. What would cause the alignment to change and what is the fix? Thanks in advance for any insight. I have a frigidaire dryer model C.
One day it was working fine and the next no heat. I have V at the plug. Federal law mandates the inclusion of a thermal fuse on all dryers manufactured since the s. A thermal fuse operates if dryer exhaust temperatures climb too high. The fuse shuts off the dryer or its components if this happens. A thermal fuse only works one time. If it triggers during a high-exhaust temperature event, the fuse must be replaced.
Many dryers simply will not run once a thermal fuse triggers. On other models, the drum continues to turn and the dryer operates, but the heating element does not. Clothes come out of the dryer wet once the appliance completes its drying cycle. Manufacturers are not consistent from model to model, even within the same brand.
Typically, you must remove the back panel of a dryer to access the fuse. Proper air flow is critical to dryer operation so the filter should be cleaned before every load. Dryer high-limit thermostat, L, with terminal extension arm. This thermostat should be closed for continuity at room temperature and opens at around degrees Fahrenheit. If the dryer won't heat, the high-limit thermostat might be defective. Hazardous Material — Special Shipping Required.
Dryer blower wheel. Used on 29 inch Whirlpool built models with lint filter on top. To remove the blower wheel, unscrew the blower wheel clockwise off the motor shaft. All rights reserved. Powered by RepairClinic. Whirlpool Logo. Clear All. Watch Video:. OEM Part - Manufacturer Remove the back access panel on the dryer, and look for the exhaust duct near the bottom of the unit. The thermal fuse is either circular or oblong, often white plastic with black material in the center and two wire leads.
The thermal fuse is mounted on the exhaust duct. Some dryer repair shops advocate bypassing the thermal fuse by adding a jumper wire. While this method does determine whether the fuse is bad, it is too easy to forget to remove the jumper and replace the thermal fuse. Instead, remove the wire leads from the thermal fuse and set a multitester to its lowest RX setting.
A reading of infinity indicates the thermal fuse is good. Any other reading means the fuse has triggered and must be replaced.
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